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New Reporter
30-09-21, 23:39
Paris is back in fashion

Paris Fashion Week presenting the Women's collections for summer 2021 has started. Here are five megashows, exhibits and presentations you need to be.

By Vicky Chahine

September 30, 2021

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This is the first “real” Parisian Fashion Week since the start of the pandemic and the capital intends to assert its position in the fashion world. A very French cocktail of megashows from major groups - Dior and Saint Laurent -, creators - Marine Serre or Guillaume Henry - and events - including the opening of the exhibition dedicated to Thierry Mugler at the Musée des Arts décoratifs.

The screening of Marine Serre

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It was a bit like a reunion evening to celebrate the return of a “normal” week of Parisian fashion. And what better name to start the festivities than Marine Serre who embodies the new French guard? In the courtyard of the Hotel Carnavalet with its secret garden, its classic facade and its mullioned windows, press, buyers and early fans attended the screening of the short film Ostal24 featuring a community dressed in the next collection , a film to “feel the beauty and simplicity of being together and find joy while cooking, eating, cooking and practicing yoga”, explained the designer. The clothes were also on display, the opportunity to take a close look at his upcycling, this way of giving new life with great talent to jeans, embroidered sheets, kitchen towels and other scarves emblazoned with his emblematic crescent moon. Bodes well for the rest of the program.

Dior's tribute

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For this spring collection, artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri continues to reinvent the Dior wardrobe without forgetting to look in the rearview mirror. The designer thus paid tribute to Marc Bohan who was at the head of the house from 1960 to 1989. More precisely, to her Slim Look collection which dates from 1961. A decade which inspired Maria Grazia Chiuri to build her graphic silhouettes in colors pop (yellow, orange, green…) and her short dresses worn with flat boots in patent leather with logo. A festive cloakroom to celebrate the euphoria of the “after” staged in a colorful decor signed by the artist Anna Paparatti around her work “Il Gioco del Nonsense”, a game of nonsense that twists the codes of that of the goose. And in the center, the musical group Il Quadro di Troisi which mixed Italian sounds and disco.

The sexy chic of Saint Laurent

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If this is a background collections, ultra femininity is a motto of Anthony Vaccarello since he took trend in these spring the reins of the house in 2016. This season, his silhouettes are inspired by Paloma Picasso and his "Subversive seduction" whose encounter, little is known, guided the creative path of Yves Saint Laurent. In his "usual" set, a podium facing the illuminated Eiffel Tower, Anthony Vaccarello paraded mannequins in notched sheath dresses and blazers worn over the skin, molded in high-waisted trousers close to the body and high-perched shoes in stilettos or plywood. On the color palette side, black dotted with blue and red dear to Paloma Picasso but also flowers from the archives of the house. Amazons who would not have displeased Mr. St. Laurent.

The creatures of the Mugler exhibition

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It was one of the events of the start of Paris Fashion Week: the opening of the retrospective that the Musée des Arts-Décoratifs is dedicating to Manfred Thierry Mugler until April 24, 2022. An evening populated by creatures dressed in the hand of the couturier who made a name for himself in the 1980s and 1990s with his silhouettes of conquering femininity. The surprise guest? The star singer Cardi B who changed during the evening, but also Carla Bruni, Anna Cleveland, Rossy de Palma, or even Arielle Dombasle came to greet Thierry Mugler and discover this exhibition which traces his journey through photographs, high archives. couture and ready-to-wear.

The freshness of Courrèges

It is in the green that Nicolas Di Felice invited his guests to discover his next collection inspired by silhouettes crossed at music festivals. Literally green since its podium is planted in the middle of the Bois de Vincennes, renowned for hosting festive evenings in the open air. It was there, in a white square painted on the lawn, that the models walked, caps aimed at their heads. Revisited capes, A-line skirts, diagonal stripes inspired by a chevron pattern from the archives or even the color palette (white, black, pink, azure blue or even silver) were like so many desirable echoes of the heritage of the brand that Nicolas Di Felice has been able to twist with his modern look.